Eye Eye - F6b+ Masson Lees Quarry, Matlock

[Tom]

If you havnt been to Masson Lees quarry you need to get there. It seems to be getting quite busy which is great as its cleaning up the place a little. If you are expecting perfect overhanging El Chorro limestone walls then stay away, but if you want a similar style of climbing only 40 mins from Nottingham then this is the place. Admittedly the place a a little crumbly and a lot of the routes rely upon glued on holds but its steep and laced with pockets and jugs. Its ideal to push your grade and as with Spain most of the routes test your ability to hold on more than your ability to do technical moves.

Eye, Eye is a great introduction to the overhanging wall. Its the easiest route on the face but there are plenty of easy routes on the less overhanging walls surrounding the quarry. The routes goes up a series of calcite pockets and even inludes a huge thread (the eyes!) which you can use to rest on after the crux.

For the full topo look at this